Seeing that air is a fluid too, i wonder if a similar principal will apply to it.

This avoids small bubbles of steam from building up and then popping, causing noise. This basically avoids pressure diferences between water in front of the blade (in the direction it's spinning), thus prevents excessive low pressure in the region through which a propellor has passed. Apparently modern day subs use propellors with a large number of thin blades. I also remember watching a program on NatGeo on submarines. Something to do with the fluid in the bearing. I remember reading that sleeve bearing fans should not be used horizontally, that shortens the life span of the fan and makes it noisier over time. Just thought i'd chip in with what i know/have to ask. but all those heatsinks that can create a lopsided effect due to the strap, this way works very well, especially when having thermal paste on both ends, and best way is to strap it down and take it apart, examine it and then fix it up add/remove any paste and place it back on.***įor the noob this is a good enough article. I agree that those that have high pressure through screws you probably should not move or twist. ***I forgot to mention that this works for those heatsinks were you have a strap and not screws. I recently replaced it recently with Noctura D14 and phenom II X6, that I dialed into 4.13ghzīut then again I would say don't do this at home :P (the way I do it works good enough when using thicker pastes, such as the arctic silver 5) my old 720 be unlocked 4 cores and running at 3.3ghz. How do I know it works? wouldnt be getting the results i did. This works so well that you cant separate the heatsink and cpu if you try to pull it straight off most of the time, but have to switch and move it. IMO this tells me that access paste has distributed even and any access is gone. in fact if you have it lapped, you can twist a bit and it starts to give some resistance. The trick is, that i did and do twist, BUT i double check how much paste there is on the heatsink and the cpu, if there is enough I then fix it up on both ends and press the 2 together and do small twist. Gloves? who uses gloves :P I use my finger :) I have been doing it before there was even aftermarket paste :P Fans with double ball bearings do not exhibit this problem. However, some cheap ball-bearing fans only employ a single bearing, and the rotational forces (plus air pressure) may cause torsion, leading to premature bearing failure.

Ball bearings endure less friction than sleeve bearings, and they typically last longer as well (depending on lubrication and design). Grinding or clanking sounds from the motor bearings are tough to quantify in a specification, but those are super annoying as well. Many times, motor noise is most annoying at low speeds, and is manifested as humming. Sleeve, Ball Bearing, Or Something Entirely Different?Ī fan's motor can contribute to noise output as well. But more than anything, you can help mitigate noise by not placing fans too close to case openings and meshes, which can result in the dreaded siren effect. Many manufacturers claim to minimize acoustics with curved blades and golf ball dimples. To that end, surface quality, the blade's angle, and the number of blades all directly influence whether or not a fan is noisy. First and foremost, a fan's blades impact its acoustic profile through more or less audible flow separation, which depends on build quality and rotational speed.

This looks like it could potentially be pretty noisy.

Home cooling fan decibel ratings chart